Netsuke

What are Netsuke

Netsuke are toggles designed to suspend objects such as small bags and inro (lacquer boxes) from the obi (sash), which is worn with the kimono. They evolved in Japan over three hundred years ago, and have changed greatly over time. The original netsuke are thought to have evolved from the use of natural objects such as shells and roots and slowly developed into intricately carved sculptural objects.

Where netsuke differs from other miniature sculpture is that they are essentially functional objects and therefore have certain constraints placed on their design. These are: Firstly, they must be small enough to pass between the obi and the kimono. Secondly, they must be compact, without protrusions which could break, or catch on and damage the threads of the kimono. Thirdly, they must have an opening for a cord to pass through, to enable objects to be suspended from them. Finally, they must be made from a durable material so that they will not be easily damaged from the rigors of use.

Unlike most other sculpture, netsuke are carved on every surface, as every aspect is intended to be viewed.

These days netsuke are rarely used functionally, however their beauty and uniqueness is still largely attributed to the functional constraints. Therefore, contemporary netsuke artists continue to take this into consideration when approaching each design.

The study of netsuke is a vast and fascinating subject, and there are many publications on the subject if you are interested to learn more.

A brief history of Netsuke

Origin
The history of netsuke is believed to begin in the 16th century or possibly earlier when functionally shaped and aesthetically pleasing found items such as bamboo roots, shells and small gourds were used to suspend objects from the obi.

Early Period
In the middle of the Edo period (late 1600’s to early 1700’s) the first artisans making netsuke appeared. Then during politically stable Bunka and Bunsei Eras of the early 1800’s we see what is often referred to as the Golden Age of netsuke. The works of this period were often large and expressive and schools of netsuke appeared in different areas around prominent artists such as Miwa in Edo, Shuzan in Osaka and Masanao in Kyoto. A lot of information about netsuke of this period comes from an important publication in 1781 called the Soken Kisho.

Middle Period Netsuke
In the late Edo era netsuke became more refined and less robust due to the demand from wealthy merchants who used netsuke as fashion accessories. The diminutive nature of netsuke made it popular among merchants as a means of subtle flamboyance in a society where ostentatious behaviour was frowned upon.

The Decline
The Meiji restoration with the arrival of the Black Ships to Japan brought about the adoption of western clothing and therefore the decline in the use of netsuke. During this time netsuke were sold off to foreigners very cheaply and were taken out of Japan in great numbers. This eventually led to the depletion of antique netsuke within Japan and an increase in the production of poor quality netsuke made purely for the tourist trade. Fortunately, some serious artists did continue to produce fine netsuke in the post restoration period.

Modern Period
The early 1900’s brings the modern era of netsuke of which the Sō School is most prominent with their superb technique and exquisite detail but less functionally robust netsuke.

Contemporary Netsuke
Following World War II many more westerners became interested in netsuke. With the encouragement and support of some important western collectors a new generation of young artists inspired to make high quality original work appeared. Their legacy has now been passed on to a further two generations within Japan and internationally with a handful of prominent non-Japanese netsuke artists gaining recognition. Interestingly over the last decade there are young Japanese who have taken to using netsuke again.